Oscar Artists: Sylber, Anthea–Two-Time Oscar-Nominated Costume Designer, Dies at 84 (Cum Advantage, Tony Nom)

‘Rosemary’s Baby,’ ‘Chinatown,’ ‘Carnal Knowledge’ Costume Designer, Dies at 84

A trailblazer and two-time Oscar nominee, she also designed Julie Christie’s iconic black dress for Shampoo and produced films with (and starring) Goldie Hawn.

Sylbert died Tuesday in Skiathos, Greece, director Sakus Lalus confirmed. Lalus just finished a documentary about Sylbert titled, My Life in 3 Acts.

Sylbert partnered with two-time Oscar-winning production Richard Sylbert on 8 films and with his twin brother, Paul Sylbert, her first husband and another Oscar-winning production designer, on another 3.

Collaborating with Mike Nichols

She also designed for Nichols’ Broadway plays, such as The Prisoner of Second Avenue, Neil Simon’s comedy that bowed in 1971, and Tom Stoppard’s The Real Thing, for which she received  Tony nomination in 1984.

Nichols introduced her when she received a career achievement award from the Costume Designers Guild in 2005.

Sylbert was the rare woman in the New Hollywood era to segue from the creative side of filmmaking to the business side, first as executive at Warner and United Artists and then as Goldie Hawn’s founding partner in production company.

For the chilling Rosemary’s Baby (1968), which starred Mia Farrow as a naïve pregnant woman who comes to realize her neighbors are members of a Satanic cult, director Polanski told Sylbert to make the audience think “we’re doing a Doris Day movie,” she said in the 2006 book Designing Movies: Portrait of a Hollywood Artist.

“He wanted everything to look ordinary. People are put at ease by ordinary, and in fact, are put at ease by garish. He didn’t want anything in the film to seem sinister.”

Ruth Gordon (left) and Mia Farrow in 1968’s ‘Rosemary’s Baby’ COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

She reteamed with Polanski for the 1930s Los Angeles-set Chinatown (1974) and received her first Oscar nomination.

My Oscar Book:

She landed her second nomination for her work in Fred Zinnemann’s Julia (1977), which takes place in Europe during World War II.

Born in Brooklyn on Oct. 6, 1939, Anthea Giannakouros studied art history at Barnard College and fashion at the Parsons School of Design, worked as a researcher for a Broadway costume designer and did off-Broadway plays like P.S. 193 and The Chief Thing.

She married Paul Sylbert in 1965, and they worked together on her first movie, The Tiger Makes Out (1967), directed by Arthur Hiller and starring Eli Wallach, Anne Jackson and Dustin Hoffman (in his debut).

In Europe, er brother-in-law Richard introduced them to Polanski.

Sylbert designed costumes for Garson Kanin’s Some Kind of a Nut (1969) and Where It’s At (1969) and Elaine May’s A New Leaf (1971) and The Heartbreak Kid (1972).

She then captured swinging Beverly Hills with her clothes for Shampoo (1975).

“When she came to the fitting for that dress, she didn’t like it,” Sylbert said. “She thought that maybe it should be cut low in the front. And the director [Hal Ashby] came to the fitting room and said, ‘Can’t you just cut it a little bit?’

“And I said, ‘No, not this dress. I’ll design a whole other dress. But this dress is this dress. The joke is, she’s up to here [to her neck in the front], and then she turns around and you see the crack in her ass.’”

Disagreements over the costumes in Norman Jewison’s F.I.S.T. (1978) led to a career change.

Jack Nicholson and Faye Dunaway in 1974’s ‘Chinatown’ COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

She was hired as vp production at Warner under John Calley, then moved to UA, where she had the same title and worked alongside Paula Weinstein, then president of motion picture at that studio.

Sylbert and Hawn first worked together on Shampoo. For a decade, they led a Disney-based production company, and she produced such films as Protocol (1984), Wildcats (1986), Overboard (1987) and CrissCross (1992), plus My Blue Heaven (1990) and Something to Talk About (1995). The first three starred Goldie Hawn.

She and Weinstein shared Emmy for outstanding made for television movie for producing 1995’s Truman, starring Gary Sinise as the 33rd U.S. president.

She divorced Paul Sylbert (One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s NestKramer vs. KramerHeaven Can Wait) in 1984, and married Mean Streets actor Richard Romanus the following year.

They went on to write and produce the Lifetime telefilms Giving Up the Ghost and If You Believe in 1998 and ’99.

The couple moved to the Greek town of Skiathos in 2000 and became honorary citizens in 2021 before Romanus died in December.

 

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